When I watch surfing competitions, I am always amazed, awed and inspired. The strength and fortitude it must take to ride those towering waves and the sheer bliss that comes from getting green roomed is what I think of as living a full and rich life; one that is on the edge of the rip amped and frothin’. How often a surfer will exceed not only his own expectations of what his body can endure when he comes to a crashing halt with his face in the sand, being torn limb from limb and flirting with death face to face, is to me the strength of character we should all possess. And then I realize, I’m a surfer too. A surfer of life’s tidal undulations, unexpected upheavals and countless moments of exaltation.
In my love affair with the sea, spending countless hours fishing, studying tides, temperature and winds, benthic organisms, pelagic species, intertidal zones and getting to know one of my all time favorite genus’ the cephalopod, (explanation coming soon), I know I am not only in or on the sea at any one moment but of it. My life is analogous to a surfer riding waves endlessly, searching for that perfect, sweet ride. Having had my face smucked into the sand, scraping my chin on the coral skree, I am now riding a crest; gettin’tubed and gettin’ stoked. It’s totally wicked dude…( ahh Ted, it has been a most excellent adventure.)
The lip of that gnarly bomb I wiped out on was with a hairy assmunch from the West that dropped in on me. I’m riding a bitchin’ glass axe now. Think epic dude… Sitting on the sand I can watch the other groms get their faces pummeled into the gritty, harsh sand while that barnwaller from the West is still trying to boost major air. Ain’t happening helm-buff.
The crest I’m on is a dream ride. I have a great business partnership doing what I love, creating, writing, editing, digital media production, web designing and more. I create at my leisure. My home is my office; in fact I am my office. I work remotely wherever I am most of the time. I can work at the beach, on a boat or on a trip someplace totally rippin’. I’m riding a totally rad A-frame. I’m dialed in and it is an endless summer bra…